Mono jack to xsl pinout. How to solder headphones: general recommendations and special cases

Portable and stationary headphones known to every user, made in the form of “droplets”, “plugs” or “shells” that completely cover the ears, have one significant drawback. They constantly break off in the most inconvenient place, namely in the area of the 3.5 (6.3) millimeter connector. In this case, the only way to correct the situation is to restore the contact or completely replace the plug itself (minijack). This is completely within the capabilities of any user who has held a soldering iron at least once.

But before you solder the plug to the headphones with 3 wires, you will need to familiarize yourself in detail with the internal structure of this transition product.

A standard 3.5 mm detachable plug consists of an internal contact part and a plastic protective casing that protects the wires from kinks and damage. It should be distinguished from a similar device of a larger size (the diameter of the working part is 6.3 mm), called a large jack.

The presented design significantly simplifies repair procedures, since soldering the headphone plug in this case comes down to the following simple steps:

first you need to disassemble the “non-working” plug;
then remove the damaged conductors and correctly solder new ones;
Finally, all that remains is to return the plug to its previous form.

The only difficulty that you will have to face when soldering is the need to deal with all the conductors suitable for the contacts (in some cases their number can reach up to 6).

The situation is much more complicated with repairing non-separable plugs, with which you will have to tinker thoroughly. The fact is that in these products the internal contact base is filled with a special plastic compound, which subsequently forms a flexible holder.

In order to solder a mini-jack to a new wiring, you will first need to cut the body of the damaged part and completely remove the mini-jack from the plug itself. Secondly, use some kind of new sheath that reliably protects the plug itself and the wire from breaking.

Preparation for soldering

Regardless of the design of the damaged and disassembled plug product, its working part requires careful preparation before soldering the conductors. To do this, you will need to take the plug remaining after disassembly with a number of contacts for connection and wires soldered to the terminals.

You need to remember or sketch the order of connecting the conductor according to the color of the insulation (the so-called “pinout”).

Another important point is to check the plug for a break or short circuit in the internal wires going to three contacts (common wire - right channel - left channel). In order to make sure that it is working properly, you will need a multimeter turned on in the “Dial” mode.

When checking, each of the 2 contact pads on the tip of the disassembled plug should be connected to the corresponding connecting tap at the other end (there should be zero resistance between them).

The body part of the element is made as a monolith with a special bracket for fixing the base of the conductor in insulation and a platform for soldering the common wire (braid).

Stripping and tinning

After disassembling the plug from the contact pads, you should unsolder the old wires (remembering their wiring first by the color of the insulation). Having disconnected unnecessary wiring, the contacts themselves must be carefully processed and excess solder removed from them.

If the old plug turns out to be faulty, it must be replaced with a new one. In this case, the contact pads should first be sanded, and then a little flux should be dropped on them and tinned with a well-heated soldering iron.

Soldering and assembly

Before soldering and assembling the plug, you should familiarize yourself with the diagram for connecting the wires to the contact pads.

The photo shows the standard headphone wiring, marked by the colors of the lead conductors.

In accordance with it, the red and blue wires are soldered to the right and left capsules of the earphone, and the common braid is soldered to the body with an eyelet.

Before soldering the plug to the speakers or headphones (which is practically the same thing), you must remember to put a protective cover on the supply cable.

After soldering is completed, the casing is moved towards the plug and then screwed onto it. It is recommended to check the serviceability of the repaired unit with the same multimeter, which should be used to ring all the restored contacts (including the ground bus).

The case when the plug, in addition to audio contacts, contains a microphone channel requires special consideration.

Restoring (repairing) a plug with a microphone input

In the modification of headphones with a headset, in addition to audio channels, a separate line is provided for transmitting a speech signal from the built-in microphone.

If a plug with an additional microphone contact needs repair, it will have to restore three signal channels and one common channel (the so-called “ground”).

All preparatory operations and soldering itself in this case are similar to the previously described options. The challenge here is to correctly label the pins and wires to match the audio and microphone lines. You can solder them according to the same rules, but taking into account the wiring diagram of additional circuits.

Particular attention should be paid to separating (shielding) the transmission channels of the audio and microphone signals of the headphones.

Otherwise, when transmitting signals, they will begin to influence each other, causing sound distortion and reduced speech intelligibility. When installing conductors, each of the braids is combined into one common core, and then soldered to the body of the plug.

Repair of a non-separable device

A feature of non-separable products is the need to restore their shell after it has been completely destroyed.

In addition, before soldering, you need to prepare a piece of heat-shrinkable tube, first cutting it off from the common coil. This element will protect the soldered wire from sharp bends while using the headphones.

After they are pulled into the supply conductors, the latter are soldered according to the already described scheme. Upon completion of the soldering operations, the plastic nozzle with heat shrink is moved towards the plug and pulled with force onto its base. To obtain a high-quality and durable shell, the heat-shrinkable tube is heated over an open fire (a lighter or matches can be used for this).

It should be noted that for soldering during plug repair, it is advisable to use a soldering iron with a power of no more than 25 watts.

To improve the quality of the resulting connections in the process of restoring contacts, you should use a special flux (rosin, solder fat, etc.) or solder paste.

Headphone repair: 7 common breakdowns

Headphones are an indispensable attribute of the daily life of a modern person. Have your favorite headphones stopped working? You shouldn’t throw them away right away; if you have a little time and a desire to save money on your purchase, you can carry out the repairs yourself. Most often, the breakdown is not serious, so do not rush to purchase a new product. Basically, if you have at least a slight understanding of the use of a soldering iron, solder, wire cutters and glue, then the work should bear fruit. Pay attention to the instructions for your headphones, maybe there is a description of your problem.

Do-it-yourself headphone repair: main problems

Today in the hardware store you can see a large number of stereo headphones, ranging from wireless, vacuum and the list ends with standard large computer devices. Each of them is designed differently. There are so many external designs that modern markets do not sell. Almost every person has one or even several headphones. They are purchased for different purposes, for example, for use at home or for long trips on the subway; they can be cheap or expensive, but they all have one big drawback: they break. The situation is familiar to everyone, the wire frays and one earphone goes silent, instead of the usual music there are fragments, wheezing and interference. The repair can be done at home.

Headphones are a pair of small sound emitters worn on the head or inserted directly into the ear canals.

The following 7 breakdowns occur most often:

Cable break;
Plug failure;
Problems with the microphone;
Speaker malfunction;
Volume control problems;
Defect of temples;
Microphone mount malfunction.

If you encounter one of these problems, do not rush to go to a service store; you can carry out repairs yourself. The first thing you need to do is understand why the headphones stopped working. Basically, damage occurs due to the fact that the headphone wires are bent and their wires are broken. In this case, the wire will need to be cut, cleaned and soldered again. If the breakdown is related to something else, then you will have to tinker.

How to disassemble and solder headphones

If your wire has come off, it is not as simple as repairing the shackle, and if you just glued the latter together, then you will need to find the place of the breakdown, unsolder the connections, repair it and solder it again. Sometimes the device cannot be repaired and will need to be replaced. The most common problem with modern headphones is broken wires. Most often this happens on headphones from a Sony or Samsung phone. Vacuum headphones from Sven, Sony, Panasonic, Beats, Dexp, Ergo, Samsung, Philips, Sennheiser and jbl are also not immune to this. In order to fix this problem you will need a number of tools.

In most cases, you can repair the headphones yourself

Namely:

Solder;
Soldering iron;
Wire cutters;
Sharp knife;
Hot melt adhesive;
Tubes;
Strong threads.

First, we determine where exactly the wire broke, because very often the damage is not visible on the upper plane and there is no confirmation of the break. To do this, you will have to connect the headphones to a sound source, for example, to a computer or phone and bend the wire until sound appears, this must be done very carefully.

When you determine the required location, proceed as follows:

You will need to take scissors and cut it at a distance of 2-3 cm from the problem point;
The insulating layer is removed, and the wires need to be “tinned”;
Take one of the available fluxes and prepare the cable for soldering;
Place the wires on the surface, it is better to use wooden blocks and press down with a soldering iron, repeat the movements similar to removing varnish from the wire;
After the wires have gone through the tinning process, put tubes on the cable and solder them according to the colors;
To make the work more reliable, fold the wires in a Z shape and wrap them with thread;
To make the cable look presentable, cover it with varnish or glue, this will add reliability.

The last point is desirable, since the threads will begin to unwind over time, and all connections will have to be resoldered. You can check the work using a computer. Another important point is that if the contacts are the same and you may forget where to connect which, the pinout, that is, the numbering of each contact, will help you.

DIY headphone repair: plug

If you are faced with a broken plug, then get ready for the fact that you will have to disassemble and reassemble it. This applies to most cases.

You must work with parts carefully, each wire strand is very thin and fragile

Problems associated with the plug can be divided into 2 groups:

Mechanical;
Not mechanical.

The latest problems occur after the cable breaks at the bend of the plug. Speaking about the process of disassembling the plug, you can immediately clarify that it is identical for all headphone models and consists of carefully removing the plastic layer along the entire surface. The purpose of this action is that we need to get to the wires.

If the last link of the plug breaks and it remains in the phone or computer, then remove it with tweezers and an awl. There is no way to fix such a breakdown, so you will have to purchase a new plug.

While listening to music, you turned the plug and the sound became dull and the volume decreased significantly, you can fix this by soldering the contacts so that they do not move side by side.

If the cable breaks at the base, then the wire will need to be cut a few centimeters above the point of breakage and reattached using a soldering iron, taking into account the color combinations of the wire. If you don't know which cable will be connected to which, use an ammeter and measure the resistance of the cords.

When one of your two contact headphones is broken, we are unlikely to purchase a new set, so we fix everything using improvised means. If you doubt your abilities, you can watch the video. It is there that you will learn how to do soldering, how headphones, or rather their housing, are disassembled, how to open it, and why a number of earbuds and plugs are used.

Wiring out headphones with microphone

In basic cases, headsets are equipped with electret capsule microphones and amplifiers. This means that during the repair process, you will have to pay attention to the polarity. In no case should you clean the wires mechanically; also make sure that the temperature does not rise, that is, you will need to solder quickly, but carefully, so it is important to immediately find out about the properties of the cord and which wires fit where in order to solder them immediately .

Single-wire headphones consist of two insulated wires (left signal and right signal) and one uninsulated ground

To ensure high quality soldering, it is best to use organic flux.

You can check whether the microphone is working without using special equipment. It is enough to replace it with another microphone or connect it to a device that will certainly show results. Otherwise, use an oscilloscope.

If the speakers are faulty: how to repair headphones

Most often, the speaker winding fails. This occurs due to exceeding the calculated power. How serious the breakdown is can be determined using a multimeter or ammeter.

There are many reasons why speakers break down and several basic methods for fixing them.

The resistance of the windings should be relatively the same and vary from 16 to 100 ohms.

If your speakers produce sound, but along with it you hear wheezing, this may indicate that the winding or membrane has broken.

The winding usually breaks due to an impact or because the magnet has moved. It happens that the coil comes off the membrane. In order to repair this part you will need glue, a sharp needle and accuracy. Be extremely careful, because after the glue is applied, the parts must take their correct position.

Headphone circuit: repairing the plug by soldering

Repairing the plug by soldering is the most critical step when repairing headphones. It depends on it how well the headset will work.

You can repair a lot of things yourself - the main thing is the desire and ability to work with various tools

The repair scheme consists of the following stages:

The wire is threaded through the plug housing;
A spring is put on the wire;
Each stripped wire is serviced;
After the flux is used, use tin to coat the wiring;
All plug contacts are maintained according to the points above;
The wires are soldered to the contacts, it is best to start with the common channel and only then deal with the left and right;
After this, we clamp the cable to protect the wire from fractures and limit its mobility;
We insulate the contacts and close the plug.

How to repair headphones at home (video)

We check the finished work for serviceability, to do this, connect the headphones to the sound source and enjoy the music. These repairs can be complicated by the fact that not all plugs can be disassembled, so when making repairs you will have to use your imagination, and then it will serve you for a very long time.

Similar materials

The pins on the headphone jacks are arranged in a certain way. In order to repair a faulty headset, you need to know the pinout of the headphones, or the wiring diagram, which is carried out in accordance with accepted standards.

Connector types

To transmit sound in analog signal format, there are special jacks in mobile devices, stereo systems, TVs, PCs and other equipment where a headphone plug is connected.

The most commonly used is the Jack connector, used in various sizes depending on the area of use.

Jack 2.5 mm (micro). The smallest type. Used in devices where other types are not suitable due to their miniature size, including walkie-talkies, spy microphones;
Jack 3.5 mm (mini). The most commonly used version of the headphone plug is mainly for transferring audio signal from the player to the headset. The same connector is used in AUX cables to transmit a signal from a smartphone to speakers;
Jack 6.3 mm (large). These are original Jack connectors. Originally used for telephone switches. Their design in 1878 was designed to provide a connector that could be easily inserted and removed while still being reliable. It was the connection standard for all professional audio devices until other, safer connectors with which it coexists, such as XLR, became available. Although the large Jack has not lost its relevance and is used to connect loudspeakers to amplifiers and guitar heads to cabinets.

Additional Information. There is another size - Jack 5.33 mm. It is used for aviation helmet microphones.

ForJack3.5mm there are three types of plugs:

TS Point-to-Point Contact - Does not support stereo audio or microphone. This means there is no left or right mono. Both sides of the headphones will produce the same sound. Not used in modern devices;
The TRS three-point contact supports stereo audio but does not support microphone. You can listen to music in stereo, but you cannot make calls using this connector;
The TRRS four-point contact, in addition to stereo, has a microphone input when connected to a control button. This is the main type of connector for a smartphone.

Pinout diagrams

When the question arises of how to solder headphone wires, first of all, you need to familiarize yourself with their pinout diagram. For connectors with markingsTRS:

T – means tip;
R – ring;
S – connecting sleeve.

TRS audio jacks are designed for standard stereo headphones without a microphone. Everything is simple here. The main difficulty is finding the right, left wires and ground. When making repairs using the circuit, you need to solder each one to its own contact.

When it came time to add a microphone channel, two connection ideas competed, which later evolved into two TRRS standards. One is called CTIA, the other is known as OMTP. Some manufacturers have chosen to insert a new contact between ground and the audio right channel input (OMTP), others have simply added it at the bottom of the sleeve (CTIA).

If different devices use different headphone pinout standards, then perhaps headphones with a microphone from a smartphone will not work with a laptop and vice versa.

Important! To overcome this problem, you can listen to music using stereo headphones with a TRS jack. They work with both standards, since the microphone position is overlapped with ground.

When the mobile device and headphones are incompatible due to different standards used, then before soldering them, you need to check the pinout diagram.

Models using different standards:

OMTP (left sound-right sound-microphone-ground): old Nokia, Samsung, Sony, Sony Ericsson (2010 and 2011 Xperia);
CTIA/AHJ (left sound-right sound-ground-mic): Apple, HTC, LG, Blackberry, latest Nokia, latest Samsung, Sony, Microsoft;
CTIA/Style AV (left sound-right sound-ground-video CVBS): Apple iPod up to 6th generation), XBox 360 E.

Headphone repair

Signs of headphone problems:

periodic loss of sound on both headphones or complete loss on one of them;
the appearance of extraneous noise and rustling when you plug the plug into the socket or move it;
sound distortion due to the loss of certain frequency ranges (can occur when the “ground” is broken);
Mono sound remains in stereo headphones;
The microphone does not work with the headset buttons.

With sufficient skills in working with electronics and knowledge of the circuit, how to solder headphones, you can repair them.

How to change the plug on the headphone cable:

When the connector itself is faulty, the wires at the connection point are damaged, or the user is thinking about how to replace one plug with another, in any case, the cable must be cut off from the plug;
Now the cable is prepared. A stereo headphone cable has 2 wires: one for the left channel, the other for the right. They can be any color (often red and green). Each of them is surrounded by a copper wire - “ground”. It is necessary to separate the “ground” from the red and green conductors, so that you get only 4 wires, of which 2 copper wires must be twisted together;

Sometimes the cable design is different. For example, one conductor will be surrounded by copper wire, and the other will be surrounded by striped red and green conductor. In this case, it is the red-green wire that is the “ground” and must be connected to the copper wire;
To remove the insulating coating from the conductors, you can use a regular match. Do not heat the wires for too long; they may become too black and brittle. The varnish coating cannot be removed with a sharp object; it can be used to clean off residues;
After unscrewing the connector housing, 3 contacts (TPS plug) will be accessible inside;

Important! Before soldering the plug to the headphones, you need to thread the cable through the top of the connector, and then reinsert this cover into the metal base. If this is not done, you will have to re-disconnect and solder the wires to the plug.

The time has come to tin the ends of the wires (treat them with a soldering iron with a small amount of solder to improve the connection);
Before you solder the wires, you must remember that soldering is not welding, it is intended to ensure reliable electrical contact. Therefore, it is important to make a good mechanical connection between the wire and the terminal: insert the wire into the hole, wrapping it a couple of times. The ground wire is usually connected to the large external connector, the other two are connected to the remaining contacts according to the diagram;
Here you can check whether the wiring is prepared correctly. To do this, connect the headphone plug to the audio device jack and check whether stereo sound is heard. The sound may flicker or crackle, but this will all stop after soldering the contacts. If the sound is not audible at all, you need to check again that the connections correspond to the pinout diagram;
Then solder the wires to the contacts;

Important! The plug must be securely fastened. When it moves during soldering, it can cause unreliable contact.

When soldering is completed, you need to crimp the contacts using pliers and then make sure that each soldered wire is separated from each other. If they touch, you may lose sound from one or both earbuds, or end up with mono instead of stereo.

Headphones with microphone

If your smartphone headset malfunctions, you will have to deal with the TRRS connector and cable, which often contains five wires and a plastic cord to strengthen the cable.

How to solder a headphone cable with a microphone, you need to look at the corresponding diagram. It depends on the standard used.

ForiPhoneWhen you open the cable, you can find the following wires:

red – right audio channel signal;
red-copper twisted - “ground” for the right audio channel;
green – left audio channel signal;
green-copper twisted – grounding for the left audio channel;
red-green sheath with a copper wire inside: the copper core is the microphone wire, the sheath is the “ground” of the microphone.

When replacing the plug on such headphones, all grounding wires are connected to a common contact, and the rest are routed according to the diagram. Subsequent manipulations are the same as when soldering a three-pin plug.

Three- and four-wire headphone cables are the most common at the moment, but sometimes, after opening the cable, you can find six wires or even more. In this case, you need to test the wires with a multimeter to determine where the right and left audio channels are. Earth can often be identified by its color.

Video

Pinout of various Jack (TRS) connectors

Jack-connector aka TRS, a common connector for transmitting audio signals with ring contacts.

There are three standard sizes of this connector.

Jack 6.35 mm, (sometimes called a large jack).
Mini-jack 3.5 mm
Micro-jack 2.5 mm.

The connectors also differ in the number of contacts (rings):

Most often it has three contacts and is correctly called TRS (stereo signal)
The option with two is called TS (mono)
Option with four TRRS (stereo + microphone\button\etc)
With five TRRRS contacts (stereo + video, etc.)

The standard stereo jack (TRS) has the following pinout:
In professional audio engineering, a balanced connection is often used, then the purpose of the contacts is different:

For mobile phone headsets today, the TRRS connector (four contacts) of standard size 3.5mm is most often used. For this connector, until 2012, manufacturers usually used a combination of contacts that complied with the OMTP (Open Mobile Terminal Platform) standard. After 2012, a sequence consistent with the CTIA (Cellular Telephone Industries Association) standard became standard practice among electronics manufacturers. The pinout of both standards is shown in the figure below.

When connecting an OMTP headset to a CTIA device in standard mode, the ground is unused. The sound of the headphones is heard as a characteristic “dull” mono with a large excess of mid frequencies. When you press the headset button, the microphone is connected to the ground contact and the OMTP headset headphones operate according to the standard scheme in stereo mode.

There are also many possible non-standard pinouts for this connector. Below is the pinout of some plugs from Apple.

Some Motorola phones used a four-pin 2.5mm jack (TRRS) plug with a non-standard pinout for the headset:

I welcome everyone who stopped by. The review will focus, as you probably already guessed, on very useful adapters/adapters/extensions for connecting to various audio equipment. In the review, I will try to talk about what a headset and headphones are, how they differ and in what ways they can be connected to different connectors. If you are interested, you are welcome under cat.

General view of the reviewed adapters:

A few words about cables and adapters:

All adapters under review are designed for a TRS audio connector, which stands for Tip (tip), Ring (ring), Sleeve (sleeve) in accordance with the shape of the contacts. Despite such a short name, another name has taken root among the people - “Jack”, which translated from English means “nest”. There are quite a few varieties of this connector, both in the number of contacts and in size (photo from the Internet):

The picture clearly shows that Jack is the largest, microJack is the most compact, by analogy with SIM cards, where the usual SIM cards for smartphones are considered microSIM and even nanoSIM.
These connectors are intended mainly for connecting cables and transmitting an audio signal, but there are also implementations for transmitting a video signal (for example, a reverse camera for GPS recorders), or for connecting low-power power supplies (power supply unit with a two-pin TS/micro/miniJack connector). On my own behalf, I’ll add that the older ones (Jack) are found in professional sound reproduction equipment, mostly due to a more reliable design and better electrical characteristics, although with the widespread use of digital sound, they are gradually losing their relevance.
In this review, I will talk about the four most common options for home use:
- three-pin miniJack 3.5mm - hereinafter referred to as miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm
- four-pin miniJack 3.5mm - hereinafter referred to as miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm
- three-pin microJack 2.5mm - hereinafter referred to as miniJack (TRS) 2.5mm
- four-pin microJack 2.5mm - hereinafter referred to as miniJack (TRRS) 2.5mm

It’s easy to guess that they differ in diameter (2.5mm vs 3.5mm) and the presence of an additional (fourth) contact, which the headset needs to control the buttons and microphone. I would like to note that headphones and a headset are completely different things and the main difference between them is that the latter have a built-in microphone and control buttons (volume, calls). Thanks to this, it is possible to control some functions of the smartphone through the headset by pressing the corresponding buttons. Headphones, in turn, do not have buttons and are only suitable for playing an audio signal. You can determine what exactly you are using by visual signs: on one of the wires going to the “ears” there is a control block with buttons, a four-pin connector (TRRS), and when connected to a gadget, a headphone icon with a microphone is displayed in the notification area . This is shown more clearly in the picture below (photo from the Internet):

For those who are not in the know, the principle of operation of the headset control buttons is quite simple: inside the case there is a small control board, which produces different resistance for different combinations of buttons. There are only two wires at the output, one of which is common with the headphones (ground). The smartphone reads the resistance and issues the required command. For example, steering wheel control buttons in a car work on the same principle.
One of the possible schemes for implementing a three-button headset:

Everything would be fine, but there is one caveat - there are two main headset wiring standards on the market - OMTP (old) and CTIA (new). If the wiring standards of the headset and the smartphone match, all functions will work; if they do not match, the sound will be “dull”, the buttons and microphone will not work. Most modern smartphones and headsets are made according to the new CTIA standard, but there are also options with the old wiring standard.
I would also like to note an important feature: all headphones with a three-pin pin (TRS) work in a four-pin socket (TRRS), without any problems or consequences for the gadget, i.e. When connecting headphones to a smartphone, the operation of the systems is not disrupted. In the opposite case, i.e. When connected to a three-pin jack (TRS), a headset with a four-pin pin (TRRS), for example, a headset to a tablet, there are also no failures in the electronics, only the additional (push-button) functions of the headset and microphone are missing. As they say, backward compatibility is maintained.
This concludes the introductory part. Below in the review we will look at adapter options for both headsets and headphones.

Extension cable miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (male) ->

The first in line is a high-quality extension cable miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (male) -> miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (female):

A distinctive feature of this extension cable is the plug located at an angle of 90°, a very durable design and full support for the CTIA headset wiring standard (“for Samsung”). In other words, using this extender, all functions of the headset will be preserved when connected to a modern smartphone.
I've had this extension cord for quite some time. I bought it after purchasing my “old man” Samsung Galaxy S3 (SGS3) in order to minimize the load on the smartphone and headset connector when listening to music. If I'm not mistaken, it was delivered in a similar bag:

Despite the sparse packaging, the extension cord is of high quality and has been in service for many years, although now I don’t use it so often. The cable is marked 2725 AWM 80C 30V VW-1 LL58663 CU CSA:

You can see a little more detail about decoding the markings in my previous review of USB 3.0 cables. I will only note that the cable has been certified, the cable manufacturer is Cablemax, the cable type is Multiple-conductor cable using non-integral jacket. As I mentioned earlier, there are absolutely no complaints about the device: the connector/socket housings are fused into a durable insulator, the cable is quite thick, the connector contacts are gold-plated (coated with titanium nitride) to protect against oxidation. The main purpose of this extension cord is to provide some protection for the connector, as well as the headset/headphone wires from bending. On modern smartphones with a CTIA headset wiring standard (“for Samsung”), when using this extension cable, all headset functions are preserved. For example, when listening to music, you can switch tracks forward/backward, pause/play a track, and answer an incoming call using the microphone built into the headset. There were no shortcomings identified, so I definitely recommend purchasing!

Extension cable miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (male) -> miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (female):

The next in line is a similar extension cable miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (male) -> miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (female), but for the OMTP headset wiring standard (old standard or “for Nokia”):

I bought this extension cord out of ignorance, so the headset functions are not available on the SGS3 smartphone. If I'm not mistaken, I bought
The appearance is similar to the previous one - the same four contacts both on the plug and in the socket, but the main difference is in the internal wiring (see “Introduction”). In this regard, when connecting the headset to modern smartphones, additional functions do not work, i.e. the headset turns into ordinary headphones, the sound becomes “muffled”.
There are no special comments on the quality, except that there is no marking on the cable, and its thickness is significantly less than the previous one. In addition, the plug here is not angled:

Despite the rather frail cable, the connector/socket housings are fused into a fairly strong insulator, and the connector contacts themselves are gold-plated (coated with titanium nitride) to protect against oxidation.
In general, the extension cord is good, but it is only relevant for older phone models.

Extension cable miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (male) ->

This is one of the simplest extension cords, designed to connect headphones or a headset to various electronic gadgets or a computer. It is intended only for audio transmission; additional functions of the headset will not work, because... the fourth wire (contact) is missing. This extension cord has a three-pin connector/socket (TRS), cable length 3m:

I bought
As far as I remember, the extension cord was supplied in a simple bag:

Despite its simplicity, the quality of the extension cord is excellent: the cable is covered with a fabric braid to protect it from stretching, the connector/socket housings are fused into a fairly strong insulator, and the connector contacts themselves are gold-plated (coated with titanium nitride) to protect against oxidation. I used it for quite a long time when connecting a headset from an SGS3 smartphone (in-ear) to the computer system unit, since the length of the headset wires was a little less than a meter and there simply weren’t enough of them. The extension cable repeatedly withstood the collision of a computer chair roller, there were no wire breaks, so if you are looking for a long enough and high-quality headphone extension cable, I recommend it!

Extension cable miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (male) -> miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (male):

This is a rather specific, but sometimes indispensable cable for connecting various audio sources to radio/tape recorders/computer:

I bought this cable a long time ago in local stores. Looks like this one, which you can buy
One of the main home uses of this extender is connecting capture cards to the input of a computer sound card, i.e. from the audio output of the board to the audio input of the sound card. Now this activity has somewhat lost its relevance, but in the distant two thousand years it was relevant. At that time I had a TV tuner (video capture card) LifeView 2000, for connection I just needed the monitored cable (it was included). Another application is the digitization of audio recordings, but at this time this activity is devoid of any meaning.
Cable length – 70cm, at both ends – three-pin miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm:

There are practically no complaints about the quality, except that the connector contacts are not gold-plated. The cable is quite durable, the connectors are firmly fused. At one time, I used it in a car, connecting first a simple MP3 player, and then a smartphone to the AUX input of the standard head unit (radio), which did not support the MP3 format and external storage devices (memory cards and flash drives):

The quality was quite satisfactory, but the connection was not very convenient. It was necessary to recharge the devices, and the loose wire created inconvenience. Therefore, after some time I purchased an FM modulator, and when I moved to another city, I finally realized that it was easier to take a normal radio tape recorder, because all sorts of interference from trolleybus tracks negated the use of the modulator. I apologize for the short opus, but I used this extension cord quite often: both in the heat and in the cold, so I can vouch for the quality.

Splitter/extension cable miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (male) ->

Next comes a rather specific miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm splitter/extension cable (male) to two miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm sockets (female):

You can buy this extension cord
Unfortunately, the splitter's connector/sockets are three-pin, allowing only stereo sound to be transmitted. When you connect a headset, it will only work as headphones. Ideal for connecting two pairs of headphones to a tablet for sharing/listening to media content in public places, for example, on a train.
If I'm not mistaken, the extension cord was supplied in a simple bag:

Despite the limited functionality, the workmanship is at a very high level: the connector/socket housings are fused into a durable but at the same time elastic insulator (somewhat reminiscent of silicone), the cable is thick but very soft, the connector contacts are gold-plated (coated with titanium nitride) for oxidation protection:

I bought this splitter/extension cable to quickly connect headphones and homemade active speakers to a computer. There were no complaints during operation, the wires were not broken, so I recommend it for purchase!

Splitter miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (male) -> 2 * miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (female):

A more compact version of the previous splitter, but the design is more frail. At one end there is a 3.5mm miniJack (TRS) plug (male):

At the other end there are two miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm sockets (female):

I bought this adapter offline, but recently came across an improved version with gold-plated contacts. In the GearBest store, a lot of ten “improved” adapters costs the same as one on Ali. You can buy
Despite the simplicity of the design, this splitter has 4 disadvantages: the case is made of soft plastic, in some cases the height of the case interferes with the adjacent socket, the connector contacts are not gold-plated, the design of the internal petals (current collectors) in the sockets is weak. Despite the disadvantages, this splitter worked flawlessly before replacing it with the previous version, but over time a slight play in the pin appeared. In this regard, given the meager cost, it is suitable only as a temporary solution.

Adapter/adapter microJack (TRS) 2.5mm (male) -> miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (female):

A very useful adapter designed to connect common headphones with a 3.5mm miniJack (TRS) connector to devices with a 2.5mm microJack (TRS) jack:

It will seem strange to many, but many old tablets have just a 2.5mm microJack (TRS) socket. I haven’t used this adapter very often, so it’s still in its original bag:

In the GearBest store there is already another product under this SKU, but you can buy
For those who do not understand, there is a 2.5mm pin on the left, and a recessed 3.5mm jack on the right for connecting modern headphones/microphones:

The quality of the adapter is average: the case is made of soft plastic, the connector contacts are not gold-plated, and the design is flimsy in appearance. Suitable only for infrequent connections.

Adapter/adapter miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (male) -> microJack (TRRS) 2.5mm (female):

Another useful adapter/adapter, but designed for connecting headphones/headsets with a 2.5mm microJack (TRRS) connector to standard 3.5mm jacks:

You can buy
In terms of workmanship, everything is excellent: durable metal case, gold-plated contacts, wiring to the modern CTIA standard (“for Samsung”). The dimensions of the adapter are very compact, the body is one-piece, non-separable. On one side there is a four-pin 3.5mm pin:

On the other side there is a recessed four-pin 2.5mm socket:

Compared to the previous adapter:

This adapter is used to connect large 2.5mm jack headphones purchased on JD's huge bounty sale for a dollar or so. The headphones themselves connect to the laptop. I've been working for a year and a half now, the flight is excellent, so I recommend it!

Case for in-ear headphones or headset:

Well, the last one on the review is a very convenient case for storing various small things:

I bought it on sale for 10 cents at some sale at the GearBest store. You can buy
If I’m not mistaken, this lot often appears in the “sale” section and just a couple of weeks ago it was just 10 cents (October 9).
I use this case to store a Tennmak headset with the very first extension cord from the review:

There is a special pocket on one of the cups:

Despite its compact size, this case easily fits two headsets. There are no special comments regarding the quality of sewing: the threads do not stick out, no leather defects were found, the lock is strong. I would like to note that the case is covered with leatherette (not natural), thanks to which it has a pleasant appearance and is somewhat resistant to moisture.
The inner diameter of the case is about 70mm, here is a comparison with a box of matches:

Two boxes of matches can easily fit inside the case. In general, even at full price it is worth the money, so I definitely recommend it!

In total, these adapters greatly facilitate working with devices that have less common connectors, and their compact dimensions allow you to carry them with you all the time. All adapters were purchased at different times and have been used for quite a long time, see recommendations under each lot

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